Public Parks in Moscow

Saturday, October 17th, 2009

Photo of Moscow's Chistye Prudy Park[Originally posted to polis] After growing up with an image of Moscow as bleak and inhospitable, I was surprised to find so many attractive parks on my first visit to the city. According to the Moscow Wikipedia entry, here are 96 parks, 18 public gardens, and 100 square kilometers of forest. These figures come from a Russian government site that is currently not accessible, but they seem fairly accurate (please let me know if you’ve seen any good studies on this). The entry provides an estimate of 27 square meters of parkland per citizen, compared with 8.6 in New York, 7.5 in London, and 6 in Paris. Besides official parks, there are countless tree-lined paths, landscaped squares, and other plantings throughout the city.

It seems that crews of workers are always performing maintenance, although I’ve heard that parks are neglected in some parts of the city. Many have simple dirt paths that weave through dense foliage. It can seem like you’re in the middle of the wilderness, even though busy streets are never far away. Many parks have flowerbeds, ponds, benches, fountains, statues, and playgrounds. These additions are beautiful in the way of functional, durable, understated things. Of course, there are also grandiose structures from the past, but these are counterbalanced by views of birch trees that sparkle against deep forest backgrounds.

Photo of a statue in Neskuchny GardenMoscow’s parks are highly accessible. They can be found within walking distance of any residential area, and on the metro, bus, and tram lines. My favorite is Neskuchny (Not Boring) Garden, which lines the Moscow River just southwest of Gorky Park. It has restful paths, a public amphitheater, and this statue of a swimmer facing the river. Neskuchny Garden leads to Vorobyovy Hills, where a majestic ski jump (complete with working chairlift) watches over the city. Izmaylovsky Park covers over 15 square kilometers. To give a sense of scale, Central Park in New York covers 3.4 square kilometers. Sokolniki, another expansive city park, borders Losiny Ostrov National Park, which has an area of 116 square kilometers (thanks again to Moscow’s Wikipedia page for these numbers). The Botanical Garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences is vast and multifaceted, with exhibitions, research facilities, exotic plants, greenhouses, streams, and old-growth forest. Moscow University has a botanical garden just north of the garden ring, which was built over 300 years ago as a source of medicinal herbs. Trees grow through the stone wall that surrounds it.

Parks in Moscow reflect the influence of historic ideas on urban landscapes. There are elements of feudalism, socialism, and capitalism. There is monarchy, anarchy, religion, modernism, and post-modernism. I think I will begin a series on the history of Moscow’s public park system. Each post could look at the influence of a different era: first, the rise of new ideas that culminated in socialist visions for the city; second, Stalin; third, Khrushchev and Brezhnev in Stalin’s wake; fourth, perestroika and the end of the Soviet state; fifth, economic crisis, recovery, and capitalist development. In looking at how different ideas shape urban landscapes, there may be lessons for improving the quality of life in cities.

Credits: Photo of Moscow’s Chistye Prudy Park by Peter Sigrist. Photo of a statue in Neskuchny Garden by trueol.

A Statue in Vancouver

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

Statue of a woman on a rock off Stanley Island in Vancouver

This is a statue just off Stanley Island in Vancouver. I like the way it gazes so serenely at the mountains, houses, and shipping docks. Sometimes statues in isolated or uncomfortable places leave me feeling unsettled. This one seems alright, as if maybe it can be replaced by a friend for a while if it wants to get away.

Return of Governors Island

Monday, September 7th, 2009

[Originally posted to polis] Plans for Governors Island are gaining momentum! Located in the New York Harbor less than half a mile from Manhattan, the island offers breathtaking views of the city. For nearly 200 years it was a military base with limited public access. In 2003, the state purchased the island for a dollar with the stipulation that it not be used for permanent housing or casinos. It is now open on weekends from the end of May through mid-October.

Big ideas have been proposed, including a New Globe Theater by Foster + Partners and a gondola system by Santiago Calatrava. Perhaps even more impressive are the steps initiated by Leslie Koch of the Governors Island Preservation and Education Corporation (GIPEC). There is now a ferry service free of charge. There are wooden bikes to borrow, hammocks along the shore, and a miniature golf course designed as part of an annual arts festival. The island is currently hosting Plot/09, an exhibition curated by Creative Time. GIPEC has sought ideas from the public and proposals from private developers. They’ve commissioned the design of a park with allées, wetlands, flower gardens, and scenic hills built from local debris covered with soil.

Funding for the island’s renewal is tenuous, so I’d like to ask how you might go about making ideas happen inexpensively. This takes a creativity that compliments the generation of ideas. It brings together the contributions of many, and can gain momentum through a succession of small victories. It is an essential part of shaping the world around us for a common good. If you’d like to get involved or follow the island’s development, more information can be found at govisland.com and govislandblog.com.

Credits: Photo of Governors Island from the gallery section of the GIPEC website.

The New High Line

Thursday, July 30th, 2009

Photo of the High Line pathway

[Originally posted to Where] The High Line is an elevated park that runs along a portion of Manhattan’s west side. It was once a railway, in use from 1934 until 1980. As vegetation took over, it became an informal and (not completely) inaccessible greenway above the streets. Neighborhood residents Joshua David and Robert Hammond started Friends of the High Line in 1999, hoping to save the structure from demolition and build support for the park idea. The city approved funding in 2004, and the lower section (from Gansevoort to 20th Street) opened in June.

Photo of trees and benches along the High Line

The park was designed by James Corner Field Operations, Piet Oudolf, and Diller Scofidio + Renfro. It is made up of pathways that weave through the original train tracks, as well as diverse plants inspired by those that grew in the absence of maintenance. The city plans to continue the park along the Hudson Yards to the Javits Convention Center. According to Mayor Bloomberg, the first section has sparked considerable neighborhood development, with more than 30 new plans now in the works. The Whitney Museum is building an extension designed by Renzo Piano at the Gansevoort entrance.

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Forest and the Fast Lane

Friday, June 5th, 2009

Photo of a metro station in Moscow[Originally posted to Where] When it comes to transition, it seems there is a lot to learn in Moscow. I’m currently writing from there, after a day of walking around and taking a few pictures. The things that really stand out are the lasting marks left on the city from very different governing ideas: ornate metro stations, trees everywhere, aging apartment blocks, modernist masterworks, cars racing down streets that take an incredibly long time to cross. Everything Stalinist is gigantic.

Many public works have aged remarkably well. The metro stations are efficient and well maintained. The ones in the center of town have all kinds of architectural touches usually reserved for mansions, theaters, monuments, city halls, and museums. There is a basic sturdiness that prevents them from seeming too extravagant. Public green space lines the streets and fills the insides of apartment blocks. It’s very refreshing on summer days. Parks are full of young couples, new families, and elders reading or just watching people pass by. The ones I’ve seen so far have been clean but not highly manicured, which gives them a kind of wilderness feel.

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Robert Royston’s Park Design

Thursday, February 14th, 2008

Landscape architect Robert Royston has designed some of the most successful parks in the United States. The site postwar portfolio – robert royston provides background information, links, and photos of his work from 1947 to 1964. I’m particularly inspired by his rooftop gardens (see photo at left). Landscape design can play an important role in creating attractive public spaces, and Royston’s work is a striking example.

An article on Royston in Dwell Magazine:
Avant Gardens

A book on Royston’s work:
Modern Public Gardens: Robert Royston and the Suburban Park

A discussion (and book) on urban parks at the Architectural League NY:
Large Parks: A panel discussion with James Corner, Julia Czerniak, George Hargreaves, Linda Pollak, and Ken Smith